Article: The Making of the Socon Cardholder.
Last month I took a trip to our factory in Melton Mowbray to see one of our best loved designs in work.
Often I visit a factory or maker at one stage of the production process but this time Minh, Giles and Amanda kindly showed me the stages and processes involved in our Socon Cardholder from start to finish - and what a treat it was!
Last month I took a trip to our factory in Melton Mowbray to see one of our best loved designs in work.
Often I visit a factory or maker at one stage of the production process but this time Minh, Giles and Amanda kindly showed me the stages and processes involved in our Socon Cardholder from start to finish - and what a treat it was!
To be reminded of the care and craftsmanship that goes into each M.Hulot design once they are in production felt important. I'm grateful to be making with this talented team and for the inspiration and considered approach this has given me for new styles to come.
Watch the video to see the journey in full, along with photographs and accompanying text to gain insight in to each process and what it does.
Thanks for joining me,
Anna
Video
the socon cardholder
From cutting panels to finished product.
Once a skin is selected the very first process is to 'click' out each piece using custom made knives, which are akin to cookie cutters, but with sharp blades on the underside.
The Socon cardholder is a symmetrical style which uses two individual knives to cut out two pairs of the required panels.
The clicking press allows for an even and heavy weight to be applied so the pieces come out individually with one 'click'.
Next, each back panel is taken to the embossing station where an M.Hulot emboss plate is clamped to the emboss machine. The required logo position on the product is mapped out with wooden markers to ensure it hits the right spot.
This is a great piece of machinery and very satisfying to watch!
The top edges of each panel are lightly sanded before painting. When choosing a paint colour, we usually go a few shades darker so that it works tonally as the veg tan leather darkens with use.
Amanda carefully adds a layer of colour with a custom metal roller.
Here the cardholder gets its signature edge detail, where the top layer of leather is removed with a hand tool to create a paler contrast and trim. This is my favourite part and beautifully highlights the characteristics of the leather!
As four pieces come together to make the cardholder it is important that there isn't any bulk.
Here Amanda use a gauge to check the thickness of each individual panel. She has a 'substance' thickness she is aiming for, and anything too thick goes through a 'skiving' machine which evenly thins-down the leather to its required substance. This is a large machine that can accommodate entire skins if necessary.
It is then rechecked again before it's ready for the next stage.
The last image shows a skiving machine on a smaller scale. This machine allows you to thin down the edges only, so there isn't any bulk at the seams.
An adhesive is applied around the slimmed down edges and then left to get 'tacky' prior to the assembling of the card wallet.
Next the two main panels are lined-up and gently manoeuvred into place before being pressed together. The position of the top slip pockets are marked with an awl tool, creating two pierced dots, and then are assembled in the same way as previously.
Now the cardholder is assembled the edges are sanded down to ensure they are smooth and level before the bevel hand tool is used to create a beautiful sloped edge profile. The is wonderful stage where the design is near completion and receiving its finesse.
Only at this point is the product actually stitched together, slowly and with care, before the end of the threads are burnt to ensure they stay in place.
Here, the outer edges receive their final light sanding before the very last edge coat is added and the product is finally complete.
What an incredible labour of love.
.
Video and Factory Process shot by Jon Aaron Green.
Final image by Beth Davis.
